A men's skin care routine in four steps

How is men's skin different?

It is thicker, the American Academy of Dermatology says, but the basic care is the same as for anyone. The bigger differences show up in oil and water. A 2013 study at the University of Hamburg measured the skin of 300 healthy men and women aged 20 to 74. Men made more oil at every age, and their oil output stayed steady as they got older, while women's fell over a lifetime.

Water went the other way. Younger men had better hydrated skin than women, but from about age 40 the men's hydration readings declined year by year. Put together, many men in their 40s and 50s have skin that still gets shiny in the T-zone but feels tight or rough elsewhere. That is why moisturizer is not optional after 40, even for oily skin.

The routine, morning and night

Four steps in the morning, two at night. All of it comes from the AAD's tips for men unless noted.

Hydration trend from Luebberding et al., 2013. Retinol is an optional sixth step at night: start slowly with the retinol for beginners guide.

Why sunscreen is the step men skip

In 2013, CDC researchers surveyed 4,033 US adults about sunscreen on a warm, sunny day outside for an hour or more. Only 18.1% of men said they regularly used it on the face, against 42.6% of women. Just 14.3% of men covered both the face and other exposed skin. Nearly 40% of all sunscreen users did not know whether theirs was broad-spectrum.

The AAD adds two reasons men should care. Men over 50 have a higher risk of melanoma, the deadliest skin cancer, than the general population. And sun damage is what turns into wrinkles and age spots. A moisturizer with SPF 30 or higher folds steps 3 and 4 into one, which helps if a long routine is what keeps you from doing it.

How to read a label, the AAD way

• Breakout-prone: look for "oil free" or "non-comedogenic" on the cleanser and moisturizer, so they do not clog pores.
• Sensitive: choose "fragrance free". The AAD warns that "unscented" products can contain masking fragrances that still irritate.
• Dry or flaky: creams and ointments hold more moisture than lotions.
• Acne-prone and thinking of petroleum jelly: the AAD advises keeping it off the face, since it may cause breakouts in some people.

Not sure which group you fall into? The skin type guide walks through two quick tests.

The shave: small changes that spare your skin

For some men, multi-blade razors cut too close. If you often get razor bumps, razor burn or ingrown hairs, the AAD suggests a single- or double-blade razor, shaving in the direction the hair grows, rinsing after every swipe and changing the blade after five to seven shaves. Do not pull the skin tight while you shave.

For tightly curled beards, the problem goes deeper than technique. The razor bumps guide explains why curved hair grows back into the skin and when a dermatologist should step in.

Darker skin: three things to watch

Dark marks after bumps and breakouts. On darker skin, the spot often lasts far longer than the pimple or razor bump that caused it. The AAD's advice for acne on skin of color is to treat breakouts early, before they leave marks, and to skip scrubbing and picking. If a benzoyl peroxide wash is part of your plan, the AAD suggests starting at 2.5%. The benzoyl peroxide vs salicylic acid guide compares the two over-the-counter options.

Skin cancer in places the sun rarely reaches. The AAD notes that in darker skin tones, skin cancer is often advanced by the time it is diagnosed, and it can appear on the palms, soles, nails, fingers and toes, and inside the mouth. A dark streak in a nail, or a sore that does not heal, deserves a dermatologist's look.

Ashy, dry patches. Medical News Today lists an ashy look among the signs of dry skin. The AAD's answer to dryness is the same for everyone: moisturize within minutes of the shower or shave, while the skin is still damp.

Facials for men in Melbourne

Kay Woodson offers a men's facial at the studio on S Wickham Rd: 60 minutes for $195, with a double cleanse, steam and an enzyme, extractions, a mask and SPF to finish. If you would rather talk first, the Service Consultation is listed at $0 for 30 minutes, see the consultation page.