An oily skin care routine for Florida summers

Why oily skin gets oilier in a Brevard summer

Skin makes more oil in hot months. A Seoul National University study measured the same volunteers' faces at five spots in every season for a year. Summer was the season of highest oil output, and the forehead, nose and chin ran oilier than the cheeks. The published summary does not give the group size. A second Korean study of 100 men aged 20 to 59 found more oil and more visible pores in summer than in winter.

Neither study was done in Florida, and neither separated heat from humidity. But the direction fits the Space Coast, where the National Weather Service puts the median start of Melbourne's wet season on May 28 and the dry season on October 17. That is close to five months of hot, wet weather every year.

Oil is not the enemy. The American Academy of Dermatology notes that oil helps preserve the skin, and that people with oily skin tend to have thicker skin and fewer wrinkles. The goal is less shine and fewer clogs, not a stripped face.

What to use, and what to skip

Built from the AAD's tips for oily skin and for acne in darker skin tones.

AAD pages listed under Sources.

Do you still need moisturizer?

Yes. The AAD tells people with oily skin to moisturize after cleansing, and a harsh wash that leaves skin tight can backfire: the AAD warns that harsh cleansers can make the skin produce more oil. In a humid summer, a light gel or lotion labeled oil free does the job. The Florida skin care guide explains how to switch textures between the wet and dry seasons.

Actives that help with shine

Salicylic, glycolic and lactic acid. The AAD says these can reduce oiliness, and also that they can be too harsh. If your skin stings or reddens, cut back or stop.

Niacinamide. In a Japanese trial of 100 adults, a 2% niacinamide moisturizer lowered oil output within 2 to 4 weeks against a placebo cream. A smaller US group saw less surface oil but no change in output. More in niacinamide benefits.

Retinol. The AAD suggests it at bedtime for oily skin and large pores. Start slowly with the retinol for beginners guide.

Pick one active, not all three at once. The AAD notes that thicker, oily skin may tolerate stronger exfoliation than dry skin, but also that exfoliating while using a retinoid can worsen dryness or trigger breakouts.

Oily skin on darker skin tones

The AAD's tips for acne in darker skin tones read like an oily-skin checklist. Breakouts only on the forehead and temples can be pomade acne from hair oil, and switching to a water- or glycerin-based product, or keeping oil to the middle of the scalp and the ends of the hair, can clear it. Cocoa butter and shea butter can clog pores, and the AAD adds there is no scientific evidence that cocoa butter evens skin tone.

Gentleness matters more on melanin-rich skin, because the dark spot often outlasts the pimple: the AAD says a mark a few shades darker than your skin usually takes 6 to 12 months to fade, and deeper color can take years. The AAD advises a mild cleanser applied with the fingertips, no scrubbing or popping, and avoiding strong chemical or mechanical exfoliation, which can leave dark spots. It also suggests seeing a dermatologist before chemical peels, microdermabrasion or laser, even at-home versions, and asking how many patients with skin of color the provider has treated.

For sunscreen, the AAD's advice for darker skin is a tinted formula with iron oxide, non-comedogenic if your skin is oily, in a shade that blends in so there is no white cast. Marks left by breakouts are covered in the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation guide.

A facial for oily skin in Melbourne

At Karisma Esthetics, oily and breakout-prone skin usually starts with the Signature Facial, $125 for 60 minutes with the consultation included. The other options are on facials in Melbourne, FL. Bring your cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen so Kay Woodson can see what is on your skin every day. The acne facial page explains which breakouts a facial suits.